Flashblog Seasonal Upgrades

Greetings, and, as always, welcome to Flashblog,

I'm your host, Flash, sifting through the detritus of modern culture for molecules of joy, seasonal and otherwise, as it relates to my almost obsessive interest in bicycles and bicycle riding.  In this edition, I get to report some very good news.  I've acquired even more bike parts since the last installment!  Here's an intriguing fact:  all these parts are brand new, the result of throwing cash around locally, and all over the internet.  Flash is doing great things for the economy!  And supporting the Euro as well, I'm proud to say.

"So just what are these parts?" you are probably asking yourself and I was hoping you would ask that.
The first thing is a new bottom bracket for my Lemond road bike.  Yes, it is at the bottom of the bike, but no, it is not a bracket at all.  What it is is a hollow splined axle with ball bearings inside a sealed metal tube.  I know, that's pretty fascinating.  I could let the warmth and tingleyness stop there, but I'll go on.  You see, the bottom bracket, in this case a type called ISIS, is an important thing in that it connects the gear thingys to the pedal thingys, and lets them go round and round smoothly.  If it fails, the "smoothly" part goes away and it literally becomes a drrraaaaaaaaag.

Here's what it looks like,but you don't see it because it is hidden inside the bike frame

Anyway, my previous BB got a little bent somehow, so the gear thingys (chainrings)  were pulsing side to side a bit, rubbing on the derailleur.  And dragging at the same time.  Bummer.  So I dropped some cash at the LBS (local bike shop) and let them order the part and install it.  Costs more this way, but its time I gave them some business as they've been very good to me.  ISIS, by the way, was an interim technology to combat the market supremacy Shimano appeared to be gaining when they "dropped" their proprietary Octalink splined system.  ISIS was formed by a consortium of competing parts concerns to combat Octalink, so they basically copied the Octalink but put on 10 splines instead of 8.  Time would show that the ISIS system, while stiff laterally, has a bearing design that wears out faster because it is forced to use more, but smaller ball bearings, thus more bearing surface area compared to a system of larger balls.

Thus, The Market then "rolled out" the external bearing system which put larger bearings on the outside of the bike, fixing the inherent shortcomings of the splined systems.  The external system is not so good for sealing out water and dirt, but it is stiff due to its larger axle shaft.  The hollow axle is integrated into the crankset, a light and efficient setup.  

This is what the external bottom bracket looks like, bearings on the outside. 

Even newer is the BB30 system, invented by Cannondale but now also on many  high end bikes.

Note the large bearing races sit inside an oversized frame tube shell.  Lighter, stiffer, most efficient.  The BB30 system results in frame swelling in its nether regions to accommodate the large bearings.

I know what you are thinking:  "Flash, why didn't you just upgrade to an external bearing system?"  Because I didn't want to also have to buy a new crankset to fit it.  My current crank features my time tested 52/39/28 gears that can not be had in a modern triple, which is commonly 50/39/30.  Beside, that would have been a $400 upgrade, just to modernize a bearing system.  I decided to put that cash into a different area, so I just replaced the ISIS unit and I'm back in biz for a good long time. 

So where did I put the cash?    Here:

Giant P SL1 Road Wheelset 

Designed for performance road riding, aimed at enthusiasts and beginner racers seeking a stiff, durable wheelsystem.

• 6061 Rim · Forged 6000-series hubs
• DT Aero bladed Stainless steel spokes, 18 front, 24 rear
• Single handed wheel release
• DT Swiss sealed hub bearings
• 21mm wide rim
• Weight 1775g per pair

The 2012 Defy Composite 1 with the P-SL1 wheels

I went on a wheel research bender, and got quite overwhelmed.  Brands such as Easton, American Classic, Shimano, Most, Neuvation, Velocity, Rolf, Rol, and a myriad of boutique wheelsmiths all claim to make the best wheel at the best price.  At first, I was thinking about a very light climbing wheel like the Easton 90, which comes in at under 1500g per set.  Or Rol Alp Duez at 1490g.  Then I started reading reviews over at Roadbikerider.com and it became clear that the lighter the wheel, the greater risk of breaking spokes or of wheel flexing.  Not to mention the cost skyrockets commensurately. The Rolf Vectors I have been using the last few years weigh in at around 2000g, so these Giants save about 200 grams, or about half a pound.  I found them on Ebay, at a great price, so threw down for them.  They feature a wider rim than usual, 21mm vs the 19mm normally found on road rims.  However, the Rolfs measure a spindly 17.9mm wide, so the new rims are something like 15% wider.  When mounting 23mm tires on the 21mm rims, the resulting tire cross section profile looks less like a lightbulb and more like an airfoil.  So this is reported to result in better cornering and road feel, almost tubular-like.  

What I can report is that when I spin the new wheels, they are completely silent, so utterly smooth that if I closed my eyes I could not tell if they were spinning.  This is new to my experience, believe it or not, I've never had spanking new wheels on a bike.  This is going to be a treat!

Road report:  SWEET!  I definitely feel a small but better difference going uphill.  It feels easier going up.  Descending feels about the same as before.  Cornering is better, and overall ride feel is zingy-er without being harsh at all.  Drawback:  changing a tire on the road is HARD.  Not sure if this is due to the Lithium tires mentioned below or the wider aspect of the rims.  I've now included liquid soap in my saddle bag to make the next road repair easier.  I kid you not!

Lastly, I contacted my people across the Pond, and they sent me over some Michelin Lithium 2 tyres.  I really like the Lithium as it rides like a ProRace, but has better puncture resistance,and is the most cost effective tyre in the line, I got a pair for $42 American. 

In progress shots.  

The wheels with tires on looks how I want them to look, understated yet with a high tech, no-nonsense appearance.  The black, gray and white colors fit the bike's overall scheme quite well.  The wheels appear as climbing wheels should look, light and purposeful, none of this aero, oversized, super deep dished carbon  excess so prevalent in bike marketing today.  Here' a fine example of blingtastic wheels:

Ugg. I hate this look on a bike.  It reminds me of this:

I just improved my machine quite a bit.  It runs like a Swiss watch and goes just a little bit better than before.  Riding should be about the fun, and it is fun that I'm having right now.  Oh yeah.  

Lastly, my New Year's resolution is to add a second ride name to my personal roster.  This name is inspired by the recent news of a long covered up family story that due to a philandering enjoyed by my grandmother  I may in fact be 1/4 Italian!

Ride On My Friends

Ciacomo Gordoni

My Day/Night/Wet/Dry/On Road/Off Road Urban Assault Bike Build

I've been wrenching on my bikes again.  It's a fun hobby.  I put them together, then take them apart and put them back together differently.  This is the beauty of bikes.  They are accessible.  Simple.  Easy to work on.  And the variations are endless.  Here's my latest and how it came to be.

Plz clic pics

I've increased my commuting by bike to work up at Chabot Space and Science Center.  I was using my Lemond road bike, which is by far the fastest and easiest way to get up the hill.  But the Lemond is relatively fragile, especially the tires, which have suffered on the mean streets of Oakland.  I also want to keep it clean as I have bad memories of riding it 200 kilometers in the rain and the major work I had to do on it after that.  I've also ridden my fast commuter, the Miyata, to work, and while almost as fast, it's a harder grind because the gears are too high, and again, the tires take a beating.  The streets of urban Oakland are in bad shape and I find myself constantly dodging potholes, cracks and seams that could not only wreck a wheel, but cause me to crash.

A few years ago, while in the midst of a steep hill climbing phase, I modified my Specialized Rockhopper mountain bike with smaller, fast rolling tires, and rode it up some of the steepest streets in all of the Bay Area.  Marin Ave. in Berkeley, for example.  Very, very steep, up to 25% grade, or more.  While the ultra low gears of this bike served me well in this endevour, the overall heavier weight of the bike made it hard for me to keep up with my riding buddies on road bikes.  After a 40 mile hill ride on the Rockhopper, I was beat like an abalone.  So I wrenched it back into a dirt bike and it was a favorite ride of my exchange student, Lorenz from Germany.  So favorite in fact, that upon returning to Deutchland, he bought an even better mountain bike.  In fact, the last time I had an off road adventure, this story developed from it.

I encountered this bike 2 years ago and was inspired by the audacity of the thing

The Rockhopper has been hanging on the wall, awaiting a new purpose.  I didn't do any dirt rides on it this year.  So one evening, my inspiration fueled by Charles Shaw merlot, I decided to resurrect the road version of the Rockhopper.  It was just what I envisioned:  A ruggedized bike frame with bomb-proof wheels, wider but still fast rolling puncture resistant tires, front shock absorbers, powerful U-brakes, and low gears for getting up the 7 mile hill to work.  And I would need fenders for wet roads.  And lights for when it gets dark at 5pm.  And reflectors.  Lots of reflectors.  I got to work.

For tires I use some generic kevlar belted city tires from Performance, the City-K, size 26x1.25.  They look like baby tires compared to the knobbies they replace.  But the small diameter also serves a secondary importance: they provide fender clearance.  For fenders, I stole some 1975 vintage rusted steel parts of my junk project bike I call "entropy".  I never ride it anymore, and it is just sitting outside rusting away.  But I've always admired the rust on top of the old chrome fenders, and their sturdy construction.  The Rockhopper was never designed for touring type fenders so I had to get creative with the mounting, relying on zip ties, bolts, and even Gorilla glue.

Front fender detail:  metal fender tab affixed with 2 zip ties to the fork bridge, and Gorilla glued to prevent sideways slippage

Rear detail:  the bike's left stay has a rear eyelet to bolt to, but none on the right side, so I used a piece of bent wire and a loop of cut innertube to create a flexible but tight connection.

The fenders are bent to a 27" arc, so they are a tad large in diameter, thus the generous tire clearance fore and aft.  I cut a rubber mud flap for the front and bolted that on.  One of these will greatly deflect road spray off your feet.

Here you can get an idea of how well the reflector tape works, even better in the dark under car headlights

Next, I installed my largest saddle bag, and put into it my Park Survival Tool, a spare tube, and other tools.  For night riding, a rear LED tailight, a front LED headlight, and the Bikeglow e-light wire for the frame, taken of the Kaptein Dutch Bike.  I also made a vestigial mount for my Nebo Redline 220 lumen flashlight which will light the pitch black road of Skyline Blvd. at night.  I also will run a 2 LED flashing red light on my helmet.

Bikeglow battery pack and Topeak pump. Note front mud flap

Lastly came a set of ultra bright yellow stick on reflectors by Nathan, available at Alameda Bicycle.  I put these on the bike and on my commuter helmet.  They glow intense yellow when lit by a bright light, just what I want.  I also applied a large yellow reflector triangle on my backpack for the ultimate light throwback.
Night riding is the most dangerous time for bike riding, I want to be seen a half mile away, I think I've achieved that.  The road going weight with everything except a water bottle is 33 lbs.  That may sound heavy as many of us ride road bikes almost half that weight, but it doesn't feel that heavy.  50 lbs feels heavy.  33 lbs feels normal.

I rode this bike to work yesterday, and while not as fast as the road bikes, it is not slow either, it's moderate, which is fast enough for commuting uphill.  It takes me 10 minutes longer to ride up the hill.   Downhill however, is a blast, as this bike runs like a small motorcycle, has front shock absorbers, and powerful brakes.  This is my favorite downhill bike, even better than the Lemond, which is a sterling downhiller.  The upright position is much more fun when going fast as I can see more not being hunched over.

A funny thing happened on that ride yesterday:  as I was climbing Skyline, I got the sudden urge to go offroad.  I considered the smooth tread tires but also considered that this is a mountain bike after all, so why not try it?  I turned off the pavement at the Sequoia-Bayview trail, which is flattish and hardpacked, and instantly my ride was transformed into something almost religious as the cathedral of trees towered over me. "This is my commute to work!  How lucky am I?"  I mused.  I knew the trail eventually got steep at the Sequoia horse arena, and I was prepared to walk, but to my amazement, I was able to ride up the soft slope in my lowest gear.  Using street tires.  A revelation!  So after work I hopped right onto West ridge trail to Graham trail, and enjoyed about a mile of dirt downhilling. More slowly than usual, to be sure, but still, I was doing it and the bike was handling fine, and I was loving it.  The fenders did not fall off.  Here was icing on the cake in terms of my one-bike-does-all build!

This bike is making me really happy for some reason.  It's a great 20 mile ride machine, and can handle anything in that 20 miles short of challenging dirt riding.  I feel more confident on it, that I don't have to worry about breaking it, that I can roll over holes and other crap and it will just suck it up in stride.   And even if I wanted, I could not buy this bike.  There are many variations on urban bikes out there, but none exactly, or even close, to this.  It's safe to say it's unique.

Build it and Ride It My Friends,

Flash

The Stove Whisperer

Greetings and welcome to Flashblog!  I'm your host, Flash, and tonight I have a very special presentation for you, my first guest Flashblog, written by my good friend and hearty cyclist John "Sweeps" McNulty.  Not having time lately to write a fresh blog update myself, it is my good fortune that Sweeps invited me and Flashette to his house recently for dinner.  What transpired there that evening was nothing less than a desperate man quickly losing his sanity,  driven semi-insane by an infernal stove noise, but pulled back from the brink of the precipice by a Flashly insight born of squeaky chains, clicking deraillers, screeching seatposts, and howling brakes.  And don't forget my daily work up as Chabot Space and Science Center, where I hone my fixology skills on a daily basis.   Ok, it was a lucky guess, but Sweeps makes it seem oh so much more than that.

So grab a glass of wine, put on some light jazz, and read Sweep's intriguing adventure down the rabbit hole of (old) technology.

Ride On,

Flash

My Pre-Flash 15 Mins of Fame---1987

Before my evolution into Flash, way back in my 2nd Cycling Incarnation, I was known simply as Jim Gordon.  There were few road riders back then as mountain biking was taking off like a rocket and what riders there were abandoned the pavement for the dirt.  There was no blogging for there was no internet or computers, at least for civilians.  I remember the fun of the hand drawn sketches of bike parts in the Nashbar catalogs back then.  I was getting into distance riding, and did a few centuries, none of them easy or comfortable.  I even did a hard climbing century in the heat with a full aero fairing on the front of my bike.  I only tried that once.

One of my friends convinced me to try racing, so I signed on as a Cat 4, at that time the entry level position for wannabe racers.  I did some local Oakland criteriums, and a few short road races---I never placed in the top 10, but then again I never crashed or dropped out either so that's something.  I did witness some horrible race crashes and I think that informed me more than the actual racing.  The following story occurred during these times.  One day I found my phone ringing off the hook by local sports media people, and I had no clue why.  Here's what went down as reporters and photographers descended on Alameda:

(Click to enlarge scan)

I found my old racing license recently, then this old article showed up in a drawer at my parent's house.  I've been looking for a copy I had, and had given up finding it, then it just appears.  A Flashblog story meant to be.

Note authentic period details in the photo:

Note in the article I referred to myself at age 32 as an old guy.  I wonder what that makes me today?  I also stated I was riding 150 miles a week which might have been an embellishment of the truth, but to be honest I can't recall actual mileage from back then.  By the way, I still own that bike, a Novara 12 speed made in Japan.  It currently lives in Tacoma Washington, slightly modified with flat bars into a commuter bike for my son Max.  I still have all the original parts so someday I will restore it.

I hope you've been amused by this rare artifact of a by-gone era.  All I can say is I'm very happy to still be out there turning the pedals a quarter century later.  Such is the beauty of cycling.

Ride On My Friends

Flash

How To: Dutch Style Flat Repair

So...it finally happened.  I was riding the Kaptein one warm Indian summer evening recently when I noticed the rear end was getting noticeably squishy.  Really?  My tire was going flat?  How was that possible?  As I've recounted in earlier posts the last time I had the rear wheel off, one year ago, is when I installed  new Continental Cityride puncture resistant tires, along with plastic rim strips to ensure I would not flat unless I rolled over a land mine.  There were no land mines this day, in fact, nothing out of the ordinary that I had rolled over.  I felt disappointed, yet curious as to why my system failed.

Flashette was with me, but she had to go home to work straightaway and could not return with the car to pick me up.  I was off at the far end of the island, in fact, in front of the USS Hornet aircraft carrier museum.  I checked my bags for my repair kit...and it was not there.  I had taken it out before my last grocery run.  The pump was not present either.  I sat there in the warm orange rays of the setting sun pondering my mistakes. My biggest mistake was assuming I would never get a flat on this bike.  Just...Flashtastic.

I could have slowly walked the 3 miles home, but my sister was in town, with her SUV, so I called her for a ride.  Luckily, with the rear seats down we could stuff the whole 50+ lb machine in in one piece.  Things worked out for me to avoid that long, slow walk, but in more normal circumstances I would have been in a jam of my own recipe, as it were.

Fast forward to repair time.  As I've said, taking the rear wheel off these bikes is a bitch  headache pain in the ass challenge.  I suppose if you work in a Dutch bike shop and do this every day it is easier and faster.  It takes me about an hour to remove the wheel and re-install it.  Here's the breakdown:

1. remove screws securing upper and lower halves of chaincase.  Using screwdriver, pry the two halves    apart along the horizontal middle seam, pull halves away from chain.
2. remove 3 speed shifting chain from rear hub
3. remove rear brake cable from drum brake
4. remove rear drum brake positioning arm from frame mount
5. remove axle nuts
6. remove axle positioning stay nuts
7. remove chain from rear cog
8. shove rear wheel forward until stay bolts clear the frame
9. jerk wheel from frame.

That's the quick and easy part.  Then I fix the tire.  Getting it all back together in the proper order takes 3 times as long and the dexterity of 3 frisky cats put together.

However, I heard about an alternative rear flat repair method that does not require removal of the wheel.  In a nutshell, the tube is repaired within the frame.  This can actually be done on any bike.

Notice that Bike Bro here shows you how to remove the tube on the FRONT tire.  Even Bike Bro fears the rear wheel demonstration--- let alone the actual fix.

First, start by getting the last bit of air out of the tube.  Starting at the bottom of the wheel, use your tire levers to lift the tire bead from the rim.  Its easy on this bike as the tires are large and not tight as on a road bike.  Begin to work your way around the rim, turning the wheel as you go.  Soon, one side of the tire is lifted off the wheel.  Pull out the tube.  Note that you cannot remove the tube, it is locked in by the frame and wheel axle.

Here's the tricky part---you have to find the puncture.  Put some air in the tube, taking care not to overinflate it or have it push against any sharp parts on the bike.  You should then hear the hisssss of air escaping somewhere.  Use your stereo hearing skills or finger to locate the escaping air.  Mark the spot using a black Sharpie pen.  Make you marks horizontal and vertical, at least 3 inches long, the hole in the middle of a large "X" mark.
Next, sand the tube with the sandpaper that came with your patch kit.  The "X" will be mostly removed, but enough will remain to see the hole.  Put a good pea sized blob of glue in the middle of the X, and smear it around in a circle with your finger.  The glue circle should be slightly larger than the diameter of your patch.
Let the glue dry for 3 or 4 minutes.  The instructions state 5 minutes, but I feel that dries the glue a bit too much.  After 4 minutes, separate a patch from its backing, and taking care not to actually touch the rubber part (handle it with its plastic wrap cover) place it centered over the X.  Take the blunt end of your Sharpie and burnish (rub vigorously) all over the patch. Don't peel the clear plastic wrap off the patch.

At some point be sure to carefully inspect the tire, outside and inside.  You want to find whatever punctured the tube and remove it.  Sometimes you can't see anything, but if you run your finger on the inside of the tire you feel glass or a strand of wire poking through.  Dig it out of there using whatever you have or whatever you can find on the side of the road.

Put the tube back into the tire, and put the tire back on the rim, essentially the reverse of removal.  Make sure the tube is nicely seated within the tire and not under the bead.  Inflate with your method of choice.  Voila!  A nicely repaired  tire.

When I had my tube out I saw what went wrong with my system.  When I initially installed the tube and rim strip  I was not careful enough and a 4" long section of the polyurethane puncture strip folded over, laying up on the sidewall instead of the bed of the tire.  Sure enough, a piece of glass punctured the tube within this 4" section.  OF COURSE IT DID!!  Murphy's Law.  I am not thrilled with the Conti puncture resistance system, this piece of glass was puny but it still got through the puncture belts within the tire.  Anyway, I repaired the rim strip ( had to blast it with a heat gun to mold it back into flatness) and now the rear tire should perform as I hope it will---that is to say, no more flats.

So I learned a new flat repair method that works, is easy, and saves much time and effort.  I may just use this on my road bikes as well just for additional practice.  Of course, all of this hinges on whether or not you would even consider patching your own tubes.  Bike shops love flat repairs for the easy money.  Support your LBS!  I think tube repair is one of the fundamental skills of the true wheelman or wheelwoman;  its rewarding,  green for the planet and saves a lot of money in the long run.

Doing whatever it takes to keep riding,

Flash

Lemond To Lemon To Lemondazed

I got my new parts last week and set about to putting the Lemond drivetrain back together and enjoying some sweet hill climbing bliss.  I'm a pretty good bike mechanic.  I have an innate sense of how things go together.  Most of my ideas are feasible.  So sometimes I coast on my build resume and overlook the more subtle aspects of the project---little things that can make or break it.  Such was the case this week.  Let me share the process with you.

When I dismantled the 52 and 42 chainrings, the 42 was large enough to slip over the spider arms.  However, upon installing the 39 replacement ring, its smaller inner diameter was just a tad too tight to slip over the spider, so I had to remove the crankarm assembly.  The Lemond uses an ISIS type splined bottom bracket, which is similar to Shimano's Octalink, but they are not compatible.  Having the crank off made installation of the rings much easier anyway.

The first puzzlement was the alignment of the 39 ring as it had a ramp and pin system on the inside that was completely different than the Bontrager part it replaced.  I rotated the ring round and round and finally I figured out it made no difference, as the pins would catch the chain at some point anyway.  The 52 ring is finished much simpler so I just bolted that on.  Lastly I greased the spindle and bolted on the crank assembly.

Next I shortened the new hollowpin chain by 5 links to match the length of the old stretched chain.  Only AFTER I shortened it did it occur to me that the old chain is longer than it should be (because it's stretched, right?) , maybe by 1 link length overall.  Oh well, that would make the new chain 1 link longer than needed, no big deal (?).  I put the new chain on, lubed it with Boeshield lube, ran through some gear changes and patted myself on the back.  Job done!

The Next Day, riding to work.
My initial feeling about the 39 was justified, I can more easily climb moderate grades compared to the 42.  However, the shifting was not so great in the rear, noise, ker-thunks, and balky shifts.  The front derailler was rubbing on the chain in several positions.  I was riding up Park Blvd, adjusting the cable barrel, when I got a rear flat.  This is the 2nd ride up in a row on the Lemond I suffered a rear flat.  At this point I was not feeling the love for the bike, even though it was entirely not the bike's fault---it was society tossing its glass my way, and me, for not taking the time to do fine adjustments on the shifting.  While working on the tire, I noticed on the 52 chainring that it's outside chainstop peg, which is supposed to be positioned so that it stops the chain from jamming between the spider and arm, was like 150 degrees rotated on the crank and just sticking out naked in the air, not doing a thing.  DOH!!  I repaired the tire and noisily climbed to work, but it was not much fun.  I was beating on myself for turning my bike into a lemon.

It was then that I realized that part of the essence of a great ride is having your bike work flawlessly and quietly.  If I have to think about what's NOT right with my bike while I'm riding it, it taints the whole ride experience. But I wondered why the changes to the shifting?

First, I had put a new chain on old sprockets and chainrings.  There are going to be teeth meshing tolerances out of spec compared to new.  Audible proof of this that when pedalling on the 39, the system  purrs like a kitten, but on the 28, it has a ratcheting sound.
Secondly, I removed the crankarm assembly and reinstalled after greasing.  I think I was able to get it further onto the spline than before, and that put the chain a millimeter or two closer to the derailleur cage.

So I put the bike back up on the rack, popped a cold PBR (the hipster's choice), and set to adjusting the front and back shifting.  I won't go into too much detail, the rear is a matter of turning the barrel back and forth until things get as quiet as possible.  The front, that's a horse of a different feather, as you have 3 index stops plus 2 trim stops, 2 limit screws, side to side alignment, plus cable tautness. By no means do I feel that I have mastered the front triple derailleur.  For instance, the Shimano technical bulletin on this part states that the 2 trim settings are for the middle chainring.  On my bike, they only serve the small inner chainring, there is no trim when I select the 39.  All this is controlled by the shift lever, the various stops and trims.  The derailleur itself is a "dumb" slave device.  No way do I even want to attempt to get into the workings of a shift lever.  In this case it is what it is, it works so I'm happy.

Then I took the outer rings off and rotated the 52 so the chainstop peg was in the right place. I laughed at myself.  When I put that on it was truly a "no brainer".

So having made all the adjustments, I rode to work again today, and the difference is like night and day.  The bike shifts well again, its quieter, the chain does not rub, there is a sense of harmony to the ride, which, like I said earlier, is essential to the gestalt.

So now I can say I put the Lemon in Lemond, and when faced with that, made Lemondade.

Ride On and Be Safe Out There My Friends,

Flash

The Lemond On Blocks

So...last time I mentioned my serious hill climbing bike, I was having a FlashZone ride, lubricated with free, found Chevron motor oil.  It reminds me of some irresponsible parties of the past, that are so good and you just don't want them to end, and then... it's the next day and there are some huge bills to pay.  Using motor oil on your bike chain is like that.  So easy, so seductively smooth. Oh so frictionless, oh so Astrolubed for a couple rides, then one day you notice a black, grimy mess all over your chain and gears.  The slightest touch of this tainted substance leaves your fingers and clothes black as night.  Oh, how I had sinned against my loyal Lemond!  I knew better but did it anyway!  Sometimes I'm an idiot, in hindsight.

Detail: 28 tooth front chainring, 42/52 removed

So the inevitable time came to clean up the mess.  I found myself loathing what my bike had become, soiled, blackened, almost infected.  I put on some old clothes and spent a good 2 hours disassembling the parts and cleaning.  Its intimate quality time with your bike.  First, I tackled the rear cassette with a toothbrush, orange cleaner, and shop rags.  Next up, I took apart the chainrings for the same treatment.  I removed the chain with the Powerlink (a must have feature on all my new chains) and cleaned the frame.  The chain was last, and always the most difficult.  After totally blackening my hands and several rags, I had a clean chain.  Only then did I decide to measure it for stretch. DOH!  It measured 12 3/16", that's very stretched.

Detail: 11-32 rear cassette and Deore XT derailleur

A new chain should measure exactly 12" from any pin to another one 12" down the line.  Use a metal ruler and a taut chain.  So I had cleaned that chain for nothing, I could have just removed it and ordered a new one.  Which I did, I'm waiting on a SRAM PC 991, which is their top 9 speed chain.  The 991 features sexy hollow pin construction and thus light weight and better shifting qualities.  I also ordered a 39 tooth middle ring to replace the 42 I have been using.  My instincts tell me that with the 39 I will be able to climb in the middle ring longer, thus the climbing abilities of the bike are enhanced overall.  I'm looking forward to the new parts.  I really am.  (for more on the subject of gears read The Low Gear Manifesto)

The Flashco Flying Trapeze, 2004

I built this hanging bike appliance years ago, but it dawns on me that I haven't featured it in Flashblog up until now.  This really makes bike work easy.  It's simply two 2x4 studs cut to length and mounted  between two rafters in my basement.  When I am not working on bikes, it swings up and nests in the ceiling.  Two large hooks support the bike from the top tube.  I incorporated a shelf above the hooks which serves as a handy tool or beer rest.

So this week I've been riding my Miyata to work as part of the Great Race Commuter Challenge.  It's a harder hill bike, it's lowest gear is a 25x36, which is only semi-compact.  If it had a 39 in front it would be a pro-racer gearset.  I feel it in my body, more stress on joints and muscles.  But between the two bikes, so far in Sept. I've bagged 110 miles and 7,500' of climbing---riding to work and back!  But I'm ready for my new drivetrain and low gears and some Indian Summer hill riding.

See you out there, 

Flash

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